
What to Do in La Palma When It Rains: Indoor Plans and the Tunnel Trick
In La Palma, a grey day is hardly ever grey across the whole island. The trade-wind clouds cling to the eastern side, around Santa Cruz, the Breñas and Mazo, while the Aridane Valley, on the other side of the ridge, is often drier. So here, unlike in Lanzarote, crossing to the other side really can be the best answer. And if it rains everywhere, there is a convent turned museum, a ship with a museum inside, a silk workshop, lava tubes and a winery to spend the day under a roof.
First, one distinction: this guide is for an ordinary grey or showery day. If there is a heavy-rain warning, the plan is a different one, and we explain it in Heavy rain in the Canary Islands: what to do.
Did you know? At the AEMET weather station at La Palma airport, on the east coast, an average of 369 litres per square metre falls in a year, with about 40 days bringing at least one litre, and the wettest month is December, with about 8 such days. And that is just one point on the island: a study published by AEMET and the Spanish Climatology Association puts the mountains of the north and east at over 1,300 litres a year, and the driest parts of the western side at under 200.
In La Palma, the side of the island matters
The same study puts it like this: the eastern side sits under the moist lower layer of the trade winds, with plenty of cloud, and the western side under the dry upper layer, with the well-known foehn effect. The Cabildo's travel guide adds the other half of the picture: the sea of clouds piles up at mid-height and leaves the high ground clear. In practice, a trade-wind day can bring drizzle to Santa Cruz and sunshine to El Paso or Los Llanos.
To cross, take the LP-3, the La Cumbre road, which starts in Breña Baja and goes through the ridge in a tunnel to El Paso. From Santa Cruz to the Caldera visitor centre, already in El Paso, it is about 23 kilometres and roughly 25 minutes by car; to Los Llanos de Aridane, under 40 minutes.
One important exception: the trick works with trade-wind cloud, not with an Atlantic storm. According to the same study, storms tend to hit the northern and western slopes harder than the eastern one, so in a real storm the west is no refuge. If what hides the sky is not cloud but dust, that is calima, which has its own rules: Calima in the Canary Islands: what to do. And why the weather changes so much within a few kilometres is explained in Canary Islands microclimates.
Santa Cruz de La Palma: a convent, a ship and a theatre
In the former 16th-century Franciscan convent, the Museo Insular de La Palma brings together fine arts, ethnography and natural sciences around two patios with wooden galleries and two cloisters, which you can also visit. It opens Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 20:00 and on Saturday mornings; Sundays and public holidays, closed. In summer and at Christmas it closes earlier.
A few minutes away, on the Plaza de la Alameda, the Barco de la Virgen is a replica ship built in 1940 for the Bajada de la Virgen festival, and inside it holds the Naval Museum: navigation instruments, models and the island's seafaring history, with an audio guide in Spanish, English and German. From October to June it opens Monday to Saturday, 10:00 to 18:00.
For the evening, check the programme of the Teatro Circo de Marte, the city's municipal theatre, with drama, music, dance and film. What is on across the island is in the La Palma events calendar.
Breña Alta and Mazo: cigars, embroidery and caves
In Breña Alta, the Museo del Puro Palmero tells how tobacco became one of the town's economic engines, especially from the 1920s to the 1960s, with panels, multimedia and tools of the period. It has a shop with cigars and other local products. It opens Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00 to 13:00.
Heading south, in Villa de Mazo, the Casa Roja holds two museums in a stately house. On the ground floor is the centre devoted to the Corpus Christi festival, with its arches and carpets made from natural materials; according to the town council, it is the only museum in Spain dedicated to this festival. Upstairs is the Embroidery Museum, with richelieu, raised work and punto perdido. It opens Monday to Saturday, 10:00 to 14:00.
In the same municipality, the Belmaco Archaeological Park has interpretation rooms, but the main thing is outside: ten natural caves and the first rock engravings ever discovered in the Canary Islands, back in the 18th century, reached along a footpath. It opens Monday to Saturday, 10:00 to 15:00. In showers, save it for another day.
Through the tunnel: El Paso and Los Llanos
Once in El Paso, the Caldera de Taburiente Visitor Centre opens every day of the year from 9:00 to 18:00. It has an exhibition room on the national park's geology, water, wildlife and plants, and a 70-seat screening room with films about the Caldera, with sound in Spanish, German and English. It is also the place to ask what state the trails are in after a few days of rain.
In the same town, Las Hilanderas is, by its own account, the only silk workshop in the Canary Islands. Silk has been worked on the island since the 16th century, and in this living workshop you see the whole process, from cocoon to thread and from thread to a treadle loom just like those of that era. It opens Monday to Friday, 10:00 to 14:00; if you are going on a Saturday, check first.
And in Los Llanos de Aridane, the Cabildo's Benahoarita Archaeological Museum shows how the Benahoaritas, the island's ancient inhabitants, lived: their settlements, how they used their surroundings and what they believed. It opens Monday to Saturday from 9:00 and also on Sunday mornings, which can rescue a grey Sunday.
Underground and among the barrels: Las Manchas and Fuencaliente
In Las Manchas, the Caños de Fuego centre grew out of the lava tubes left by the 1949 eruption of the San Juan volcano. Inside there is an exhibition area, an audiovisual room and guided access to the Cueva del Vidrio lava tube. Across the road, walkways with a glass viewpoint lead to the Cueva de Las Palomas, and that stretch is already outdoors. It opens every day from 10:00 to 18:00.
Further south, in Fuencaliente, Bodegas Teneguía is the town's cooperative winery, making wines under the La Palma Designation of Origin, and it offers guided visits with booking: the tour runs from the pressing room to the ageing room with its barrels and ends in the tasting room.
What is better saved for a clear day
The area of the 2021 eruption is seen from open-air viewpoints, and with low cloud you will barely see the cone. How to visit it well is in Where to see the La Palma volcano: the Tajogaite viewpoints.
The Roque de los Muchachos Visitor Centre is indoors, but it sits at 2,426 metres and its whole point is the observatory around it. With a sea of clouds, the summit can stay above them and clear; if the bad weather comes from a storm, it is not your plan. The same goes for the stars: Where to see the stars in the Canary Islands.
The Ecofinca Platanológico, near Puerto Naos, shows you an organic banana farm on a guided visit you book ahead. It is outdoors, among the banana plants: it suits a cloudy day in the west, not a rainy one.
And in the north-east, the El Tendal Archaeological Park has a visitor centre with original finds, films and a video mapping show, open every day from 10:00 to 18:00. But the great cave where around twenty Benahoaritas lived for at least a thousand years lies down in the ravine, in the open air, and you cannot go inside it.
The local trick: the tunnel and the calendar
In short: if the grey comes from the trade winds, drive through the tunnel; if it is a storm, stay at the nearest museum. And check the day of the week. On Sundays the Museo Insular, the Naval Museum, the Casa Roja, Belmaco, Las Hilanderas and the Museo del Puro Palmero are closed, and the last one does not open on Mondays either. That day your safe bets are the Caldera visitor centre, Caños de Fuego, El Tendal and, in the morning, the Benahoarita museum.
When the sun comes back, there is what to see in La Palma and the best beaches in La Palma. And if your trip continues to other islands, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura have their own plan B: What to do in Tenerife when it rains, What to do in Gran Canaria when it rains, What to do in Lanzarote when it rains and What to do in Fuerteventura when it rains.
Find all these places, with their location, opening hours and how to get there, on islas24.info.
Sources: Cabildo de La Palma (cabildodelapalma.es) and Museo Insular de La Palma (museoinsularlapalma.com); Museo Naval del Barco (museonavaldelbarco.es); Cabildo de La Palma tourism service (visitlapalma.es and its 2026 Traveller's Guide; lapalmacentrosturisticos.com: Caños de Fuego, El Tendal and the Roque de los Muchachos Visitor Centre); Spanish Ministry for the Ecological Transition, Caldera de Taburiente National Park (miteco.gob.es); Villa de Mazo town council (villademazo.com): Casa Roja and Belmaco; Santa Cruz de La Palma town council: Teatro Circo de Marte; Museo del Puro Palmero (museodelpuropalmero.com); Las Hilanderas (lashilanderaselpaso.com) and El Paso tourism (holaelpaso.es); Ecofinca Platanológico (platanologico.es); AEMET, 1981-2010 climate normals for La Palma Airport; Álvarez Ferraz and Martí Ezpeleta, "Contrastes climáticos en la isla de La Palma y su repercusión biogeográfica" (AEC and AEMET, 2022). Opening hours checked on 26 October 2026.
Cover image: islas24 map based on data © OpenStreetMap contributors.