Beaches and natural pools in El Hierro
If you come to El Hierro looking for miles of sand, it is best to say it plainly from the start: there are almost no sandy beaches here. The smallest and wildest of the Canary Islands is a young volcano that plunges into the Atlantic in cliffs and lava flows, and the way to swim here is not on the sand but in the natural pools and rock pools that the sea has slowly filled among the black rock. And that is exactly its charm: crystal-clear water, no crowds and a volcanic seabed that no longer exists on many islands. We will tell you the best spots for a swim, the one sandy beach worth the trip and, at the end, how to choose according to the day and swim sensibly.
Natural pools: the soul of the island
The bathing heart of El Hierro is in El Golfo, the great valley in the northwest. The best known is La Maceta, a set of natural pools carved into the lava, with parking, showers and a restaurant nearby, and a shallow pool perfect for the little ones. A step away lies Charco Azul, probably the most photographed corner of the island: an emerald-green lagoon wedged between arches and walls of volcanic rock, reached by a staircase carved into the stone. As it is a pool set among basalt walls, it is worth checking at the tourist office whether access is fully open, because it is sometimes temporarily restricted for safety works. Very close to La Maceta, the Charco de los Sargos completes the route, more tucked away and less crowded, set among cliffs and volcanic tubes.
In the north, next to the village of Echedo, the Charco Manso is another natural pool much loved by locals, with its steps to get into the water. And very close by, below El Mocanal, the Pozo de las Calcosas is a postcard of its own: a fishing hamlet of volcanic-stone houses with thatched roofs clinging to the foot of the cliff, with a natural pool sheltered by the rocks below. You walk down a steep slope from the car park, and the reward is a swim in a spot that seems frozen in time. These are places for a calm swim when the sea allows, and for looking and enjoying from the rock when it does not: with swell or heavy sea, the waves rush right in among the lava and swimming stops being safe, so in El Hierro the first thing is always to check how the sea is that day.
The calm south: Tacorón and La Restinga
Head south and the sea changes character. Tacorón is a succession of coves and pools among recent lava flows, with reddish sand, stone arches and water that tends to be calmer than in the north: it is already within the Mar de las Calmas, and it is one of the best places on the island to swim and snorkel in peace: the water is usually like a mirror and you can see the life of the reserve with just a mask and snorkel, no need to dive. There are iron ladders to get down to the water and shaded picnic areas, so it is a full-day plan. That said, there is only a lifeguard in the summer months, and there is no dive shop: if you want to snorkel, bring your gear from home.
Further south still is La Restinga, the southernmost fishing village in Spain. Here you do not come to sunbathe but to put your head under the water: it is the gateway to the Mar de las Calmas Marine Reserve, one of the best diving and snorkelling destinations in Europe. A few minutes by boat from the harbour take you to walls, caves and volcanic tubes teeming with life, with the warmest waters in the whole archipelago. Being a reserve, diving is regulated: it is always done with an authorised centre in the village (they hold the permit and control the quotas), there is a maximum number of divers per dive site, and diving is not allowed in the integral reserve of the Bahía de Naos. Snorkelling from the shore, on the other hand, is free.
The only sand that counts: the Verodal
If you really want to set foot on sand, your spot is the Playa del Verodal, at the western tip. It is the island's only real sandy beach and, on top of that, a rarity: its sand is an intense red, stained by the iron oxide of the volcanic rock, a stark contrast with the blue of the Atlantic. The landscape is pristine and spectacular, but be careful with swimming: here the sea usually breaks hard and the currents are dangerous, so much so that the red flag flies for much of the year. There is no lifeguard or services on the shore, so many days it is more a beach for looking and taking photos than for swimming. Go, enjoy the colour, and get in the water only with a calm sea and where it is shallow.
In the east, near Valverde, Playa de Timijiraque offers the other side: dark sand, some services and more of a village feel. And in the same area, the Tamaduste pool is the friendly exception, a natural pool with a bit of sand and sheltered by a rock bar, ideal with children.
Did you know? The Mar de las Calmas Marine Reserve, in the south of El Hierro, was the first marine reserve of fishing interest in the Canaries, created in 1996. It covers some 750 hectares and is one of the southernmost in Europe. Its waters, the warmest in the archipelago, allow you to see almost tropical species, and to protect the seabed the number of divers per dive site is limited. That is why divers consider it one of the best places to dive on the continent.
How to choose your swim (and a few tips)
North or south. El Golfo, in the northwest (La Maceta, Charco Azul), holds the most beautiful natural pools, but the northern sea is rougher. The south (Tacorón, La Restinga) tends to be calmer and is the better bet for swimming and snorkelling in peace.
Check the tide and the sea. The pools are best enjoyed with a calm sea and low or mid tide; with a heavy sea, the water rushes in among the rocks and it is not worth it. At the Verodal, always respect the swell: it is one of the areas where the Atlantic rules most.
How to get to the island. El Hierro is reached by ferry from Los Cristianos (Tenerife) to Puerto de la Estaca in about two and a half hours, with Fred. Olsen and Naviera Armas, or by plane with Binter from Tenerife North and Gran Canaria. Once here, a rental car is the comfortable option.
Getting around inside. There is a bus network across the island, but it is sparse: many pools and remote beaches are served by only one or two buses a day, or the buses do not reach the coast at all. You can check routes and timetables on the official website of TransHierro, but to do the bathing route in a day a rental car is almost essential.
Check it before you set off. The state of the sea in El Golfo can be seen live: there is a live webcam pointing at the natural pools of La Maceta with Los Roques de Salmor in the background. One glance tells you whether it is time for a swim or just a stroll.
Safety. The Canary Atlantic is not the Mediterranean. On open beaches and in pools with a heavy sea, the currents and swell can be strong. Watch the state of the sea and, if in doubt, stay where it is shallow. We explain it in detail in our guide to currents and undertow in the Canaries.
On islas24 you have each of these pools and beaches with their location, how to get there and their services, so you can build your route according to the day. In El Hierro you do not come for the sand: you come for the clean water, the black rock and the feeling of having the sea almost to yourself. You just have to choose the pool and wait for the sea to be on your side.